Chefs, farmers forge partnerships

April 24th, 2009 at 12:00am Constance McCarthy

Winnebago County Extension and the Local Foods Working Group had sensed an interest among area farmers and producers in selling their goods to area restaurants, as well as an interest among locally-owned restaurants in serving more local foods. And so it was at the end of March that close to 30 producers, chefs, restaurant owners, and local food advocates gathered at Octane Interlounge to learn about this process and lay the foundation for future collaborations. The diverse group included representatives from nearly all of the area’s top restaurants, many organic and sustainable farms, and Angelic Organics Learning Center.

David Cleverdon shared insights he’s gleaned in the 15 years since he started Kinninnick Farm, which sells to many of Chicago’s top restaurants. The bottom line: the best partnership brings together a chef that is as passionate about cooking as the farmer is about growing a superior product.

Tom Eickman, of Eickman’s Processing, brought the perspective of a custom processor who typically acts as a middleman between the producer and consumers, explaining how it works to buy meat directly from a farmer. A major upside of this is that the chef can get to know the producer personally, as well as what kind of agricultural practices the producer employs.

In October 2008, Kiki B’s hosted our area’s first-ever Local Foods event in conjunction with Extension. Kiki Benson, the owner, has noticed a positive change in the community’s knowledge about, and appreciation for, local and organic foods, and she looks forward to serving more such food at Kiki B’s.

The farmers and chefs at this mixer went on to have a dynamic exchange about how the two groups can work together in the future. A good first step was taken by each side’s simply learning how the other does business. Would farmers deliver to restaurants? (a resounding yes!) How many rib eye steaks can you get from a single cow? (only 25 pounds or so) How many pounds of various veggies are purchased by a restaurant each week? (this information will be shared with farmers on an anonymous basis)

All in attendance agreed that public awareness of local foods needs to continue to be increased. Although things have been changing for the better in our area, there is still a ways to go. Hopefully this blog can make a contribution in that regard. If you’d like to see more local foods on the menu at your favorite restaurant, don’t be afraid to let them know.

I recently attended a food policy summit in Chicago, where Rick Bayless (of Frontera Grill fame) stated the only reason he started serving local foods in the 1990’s was because he wanted to distinguish himself from the competition. He still serves local foods, but for many other reasons, too. Just as he has evolved, his customers now have an increased desire to consume local food. Here’s hoping this process can take place right here in our own community!

Entry Filed under: Eat locally